Cá Kho Tộ – My Caramel Salmon
Vietnamese Sweet & Salty Braised Salmon
Cá kho tộ is a Vietnamese caramelized fish dish that always reminds me of my mother's cooking.
Back home, we usually made it with catfish. My mother would cook the fish slowly on the stove, allowing it to simmer for quite a long time until the sauce reduced and the fish absorbed the deep flavors of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and chili.
My version is a little different because I often use salmon. Salmon is naturally rich and fatty, and I don't want to cook it for a long time or allow it to become dry. I cook it just until tender, keeping the center moist and slightly pink, while reducing the sauce around it until it becomes glossy and concentrated.
I especially like serving this dish with steamed rice and Vietnamese green mango salad. The mango is fresh and sour, which balances the sweet and salty caramel sauce beautifully.
My mother usually made cá kho with catfish and cooked it slowly for much longer. The fish absorbed the sauce until it became deeply seasoned with the sweet and salty flavors.
When I use salmon, I change the technique. Salmon has a different texture and plenty of natural fat, so I cook it for a much shorter time. I want the sauce reduced and flavorful, but I still want the salmon moist and tender inside.
Ingredients
2 small pieces salmon, preferably from a fattier section
1 shallot, thinly sliced or chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 Thai red chili or other red chili, sliced
2 tbsp brown sugar
3 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp dark soy sauce
Cooking oil
Chopped green onions, for garnish
Sliced red chili, for garnish
About the Dark Soy Sauce
Traditionally, nước màu—Vietnamese caramel sauce—can be used to give cá kho its characteristic deep caramel color.
When I don't have nước màu ready, I add 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce instead. It gives my salmon a deeper color without requiring me to make a separate caramel sauce.
Cook the Salmon
Heat a small amount of cooking oil in a skillet or shallow pot over medium heat.
Add the brown sugar and allow it to begin melting into the oil.
Add the shallot, garlic, and chili. Cook briefly until fragrant.
Place the salmon pieces in the pan.
Add the fish sauce and dark soy sauce.
Cover, reduce the heat to low, and gently cook for approximately 10 minutes.
Remove the lid and carefully turn the salmon so both sides become coated with the sauce.
Continue cooking uncovered, spooning the sauce over the salmon as it reduces.
When the salmon is cooked to your liking, remove it before it becomes dry. Continue reducing the sauce briefly if necessary until it is slightly thick, glossy, sweet, and salty.
Spoon the reduced sauce over the salmon.
Finish with chopped green onions, cilantro and sliced red chili.
Serve
Serve hot with steamed rice and a fresh salad.
My favorite accompaniment is green mango salad. I like the contrast: the cá kho is rich, savory, sweet, and salty, while the mango brings sourness and freshness.
Cooking with Confidence
Choose a fatty piece of salmon. It works particularly well with the strong fish-sauce and caramel flavors.
Don't treat salmon like catfish. Your mother's long braise works for the traditional fish she used, but salmon can become dry if subjected to the same cooking time.
Reduce the sauce, not the life out of the fish. If the salmon reaches the texture you want before the sauce has thickened enough, remove the fish and reduce the sauce separately for another minute or two.
Taste before adding salt. With 3 tablespoons fish sauce plus dark soy sauce, you shouldn't need additional salt.
